- by Luisa
Two days ago, I received an email from a potential customer who wanted to hire me for an "intimate parts" product.
I enquired about the project budget and the client said "money is not a problem".
I was pretty excited! It seemed like a smooth project with a good margin.
We scheduled a phone call to further discuss the project. During our phone conversation, I found out that this client wished to add probiotics to the product .
"There's no way probiotics can survive in presence of the preservative".
This is what my client replied: "DON'T ADD THE PRESERVATIVE, THEN. "
There's a new horrible trend going on. It feeds itself on the (false ) belief that everything that is natural is good and vice versa. As a consequence, some brands started making "preservative free cosmetics".
According to some people, preservatives are not necessary and can be even harmful.
It's true that a high number of skin allergies and reactions are mainly caused by preservatives and fragrances, but...this is not a valid reason to avoid using preservatives.
What you can and should do is to inform yourself about the preservatives that are less likely to cause bad skin reactions.
Want all natural products?
I get that.
But, even natural products should be safe and include a preservative! Just because you don't see any sign of spoilage, it doesn't mean it's not here. We know cosmetics don't have to be sterile. It would be quite ridiculous. At the same time, you don't want pathogen bacteria in them. Sure, not all bacteria, fungi, and mold are dangerous; however, even the innocuous ones could prevent the product from working the way it is supposed to do.
As brand owner, you have the legal and moral responsibility of making sure the products you sell are safe. Period.
Vitamin E is not a preservative. And no, essential oils are not a preservative as well.
There are some studies, indeed, that prove essential oils have anti-microbial properties. Two examples are Thyme and Tea Tree oil.
Okay, so why essential oils can't be used as preservative?
"Omnia venenum sunt: nec sine veneno quicquam existit. Dosis sola facit, ut venenum non fit" (Paracelsus)
As the wise Paracelsus figured out many years ago, the dose plays a crucial role; to exert their function as preservative, essential oils should be present as combination and at high doses (sometimes more that 3%). These high doses are extremely irritant for the skin; this is why essential oils cannot be used as preservatives. Furthermore, essential oils might be able to fight bacteria, but not fungi.
Are there products that don't require a preservative?
Yes! As a general rule, products with no water don't need a preservative; however, if you suppose they'll come in contact with water during use, then a preservative is necessary.
Oils mixtures do not require a preservative as there's no chance bacteria are going to grow in them without water. From a stability point of view, though, oils still need something able to preserve their good qualities over time...they need an antioxidant.
Fats are well known to become rancid without a good antioxidant. Vitamin E is a well known, ubiquitous antioxidant. I guess this is why it gained the wrong preservative reputation.
To summarize, vitamin E does help to preserve a product, but from a physical stability point of view only. It is not able to kill or prevent bacteria growth.
Other products that don't require a preservative are those with pH values below 4 or above 8 and products with a high content of alcohol (perfumes) or salt.
Lotions always need a preservative system.
Natural preservatives for cosmetics
As said above, you should always add a preservative no matter if you want to keep your product 100% natural.
There are many different all natural preservatives for cosmetics. Don't listen to whoever says natural preservatives don't work very well. I've formulated many lotions with all natural preservatives and they all passed microbiological tests.
Here's a list that includes natural preservatives that work. The list is not exhaustive, so I invite you to comment with other options you have tested successfully.
And the winner is...
This is my favorite natural preservative (if something like favorite preservative exists ).
MINASOLVE GREEN B (more info here). Ecocert/Cosmos Approved. INCI: Pentylene glycol (and) Water (and) Sodium benzoate (and) Benzoic acid. Recommended use level : from 1% to 3%. Works best at pH below 6.
Don't know where to find Minasolve or other ingredients? Insert your email below to receive a FREE guide.
Formulating with preservatives: guidelines and tips.
I don't know how familiar you are with preservative, but I am pretty sure you know that there's tons of preservatives out there.
How to choose the right one (or the right combination)?
When it comes to cosmetic regulations, always take EU as a reference.
What is your preservative of choice when making skincare?
Would you enjoy joining a free community of like- minded cosmetic entrepreneurs? Click here